Saturday, May 15, 2010

Sunday, November 9, 2008

Full Circle..this journey is complete..

Friday 07/11/08 - Bathurst to Bilgola
Fairly relaxed morning, packed up in no particular hurry, with only 200 kms to go to home.
Seems kinda unreal that this is finishing, but I guess it's been in our minds for a few days now, it seems strange that tomorrow, I'll be sure of what day or what time it is.
Took off to Lithgow but stopped shortly afterwards wanting atleast to get a couple of pics of rural Australia, to show that in many places the red dirt is hidden by top soil and lush grass.
The Blue Mountains were now looming majestically in the distance and soon enough we were drinking a coffee in Lithgow in their shadow.
Road up the mountain out of Lithgow is a beauty and then joins on to an even better one, the interestingly named " Bell's line of road". For those who don't know it, it's a favourate of Sydney bikers, a fast, testing road which runs along the top of a ridge line, and offers sensational views across the mountains and valleys. Unfortunately though the road surface was terrible and being our last day, and feeling like I was riding a horse, (not a feeling, I've ever felt comfortable with) we took it easy and enjoyed the magnificent scenery. Rode down the lovely Bellbird hill (You can actually hear them, if you can switch yourself off from the sounds of the engine for long enough) and into North Richmond, Richmond, Windsor, and then off piste again towards Pitt Town and Moraya before Galston and down into the gorge. It was a potentially perfect ride through, with no traffic in front, but I was riding "ugly" and Hanako's clutch was slipping due to some heavy duty oil additive I'd given her to try and cure her growing addiction to 25W-60 .
And then we there, back at our little road side spot above the gorge, where almost all the rides I've ever done have started.
We acknowledged it, smiled a little and hugged, a great moment.
Then redonned our armour and headed home.
For me coming down Tumbledown Dick hill (on Mona Vale Rd), and seeing the Ocean in the distance is always a special moment, and always tells me I'm home.

Almost there...slow motion...Bogan country

Thursday 06/11/08 - Cobar to Bathurst
Only 700 kms from Sydney now, but talked about it last night and decided to do do 2 hops than one long ordeal, the kms around Sydney, definitely take longer and neither of us had any wish to spend an extra couple of hours in traffic at the end of the day..especially not our last one.
So...took it pretty easy packing up and rode fairly easily, listening to music, when a large Green sign appeared in the distance. " Welcome to Bogan country", to any family and friends reading rhis outside of Australia, this may not seem unusual except perhaps the word, So have added an Aussie website to provide further education.
http://www.bogan.com.au/definition/index.php
Anyway it seemed funny to me at the time !
Stopped in Nyngan for a couple of hours, talking to locals and soaking up the sunshine with a few of the locals. Rode on through Trangie and Narromine to Dubbo, a lovely town, which I was expecting to be fairly small, but wasn't. The whole cafe culture, "Sophistication", is alive and well there , in a good way (The food and coffee's excellent).
Road from Dubbo to Orange was lovely, rolling hills, green and gold paddocks, dotted with patches of Pattersons curse(Purple flowering weed) and stands of large gums.
Filled up in Orange and decided to go one more session to Bathurst. Every town we come to now, however small it appears on the map is big, busy and bustling, the difference of perhaps 200kms is a whole new world and a reminder that home is close at hand.
Very fast ride to Bathurst and I guess another indication of the proximity to Sydney...I think it was rush hour. Rode around Bathurst and set up in a Caravan park on the the Kelso side of town.
Ate at the local Kelso pub, and then chatted to a Dutch couple back at the park who were just setting off...Tonight is our last night...only 200 kms to Sydney

NSW...but still out the back

Wednesday 05/11/08 Yunta to Cobar
Upand going earlish for the 200kms to Broken hill, again very similar to NT, with the low scrub, red dirt stretching out to the the horizon. In Broken Hill the overcast sky cleared. Stopped for a coffee and a chat to more motorcycle heads and then went for a look over the local area from the top of the slag heap.
Rode east to Wilcannia, through a vast ever changing landscape, a real feeling of space, with no time..
Stopped in Wilcannia for a roast beef roll and gravy...ahhh...roadhouse food. Wilcannia looked like a nice old town, but fair amount of Aboriginal kids just hanging out for something to happen, strong feeling of lack of purpose and direction, not dissimilar to the famous Turkey Creek.
261 Kms on to Cobar - Wild west still, masses of Red/Orangey dirt , high and then low scrub in places, sometimes stands of Eucalypts in the beautiful barren landscape, but always that massive blue sky.
Way to much wildlife last 100kms into Cobar, Roos, Sheep and thousands of Goats, and more Roo roadkill per km, than at any other place on the trip.
Set up on the edge of Cobar and shot into town to the RSL - classic country chinese cuisine :-)
660 kms today, a fair slog, but good, both bikes hanging in there...go the girls

Saturday, November 8, 2008

Port Lincoln ..across South Australia

Tuesday 04/11/08 Port Lincoln to Yunta
Left Lincoln about 8 and rode up the east coast of the Eyre Peninsula towards Port Augusta, riding was hard running into a strong head wind, getting battered.
Went to stop at Arno bay for fuel, and as sometimes happens out in the wilds, none available, only 25 Kms to the next fuel stop, but inland.
It was a lucky move as we got out of the head wind, off the main road, and into some nice twisty riding roads upto the small town of Cleve, filled up then headed upto Kimba.
Kimba to Port Augusta, was like being back in the NT, Red Dirt, Red Rock, heated up from cool in Port Lincoln to hot to Port Augusta. Passed by Iron Knob, a massive Iron Ore mine and then onto Port Augusta, where we stopped for lunch and then headed down the Adelaide road before taking the turn off at Wilmington towards Broken hill.
Road from Willimington to Yunta was beautiful, firstly up and over a range and then out on to a massive plain, late afternoon sun again lighting up the low scrub and rural land, huge vibrant blue sky, streaked with skinny clouds.
Massive landscape, had the feeling of floating through a painting. When we got off the bikes in Yunta, remarked to Geoff, "That was like a religious experience".
Yunta was pretty small with a little old pub, and since we were still looking for a night in a classic Aussie pub, we decided to stay rather than camp.
Pub was good, food was great, classic simple country cooking (read...heaps of meat)
We however were the only people there apart from the publican and his wife, who were also bike riders and so it went on..

Eyre peninsular...it's a secret..

Monday 03/11/08 Streaky Bay to Port Lincoln
Set of out of Streaky Bay around the headlands, but too much dirt for the girls to handle, so set off on the bitumen road to Port Lincoln. Stopped in at Venus Bay for Petrol, cuppa Tea Luv, and a picture of the bikes on a fishing pier, Geoff had been hanging out for this since seeing the opportunity the previous night in Streaky, only problem was we couldn't turn around at the end...strange looks from a couple of fisherman..."does the ferry go from here" says I, reversing the caravan as gracefully as possible.
Venus Bay was gorgeous, beautiful scenery of bays, islands, sandbars, that magic aqua water first seen in WA.
Stopped at Talia Caves and Bay for a look then onto Elliston for lunch.
Scenery changed shortly after, riding over desolate limestone hills dotted with the occasional sheep and then about 40k before Coffin Bay went back to rural with large stands of gums flanking the roadside in lush green grass filled meadows.
Stopped at Coffin bay fuel, oysters and then Tea (No beer at the shop sadly). Learned how to shuck our own oysters by the locals and then after more chat, followed there advice and headed out to the park.
Coffin Bay NP was for me one of the most beautiful places I'd seen so far, great little windy road up and over sand dunes carefully giving quick glimpses of the scenes ahead. Took a left to Golden Island and all of a sudden we were on the coast, scenery was spectacular, endless white sand beaches, Limestone Islands, wild seas, beautiful bays and the same crystal clear azure water.
This place (Eyre peninsular) seems a bit of a secret, no backpackers or international tourists and very few Australian tourists except South Australians ! It was a great tip to come here!
Went on the 30 odd kms to Port Lincoln, camped down on the water, checked the bike out after having a little front wheel speed wobble, for Geoff to discover one of the nuts at the bottom of my front forks, (holding the wheel on) had vibrated loose....nice one..
Then headed into town to the Pier hotel, for "scotch on the rocks", fillet steak with Oysters kilpatrick...another tip from a coffin bay local...who says hairy bikers can't live it up occasionally, Geoff on the other hand was dreaming of 2 minute noodles..... :-)

Euchla, Aussie Bite and into South Australia

Sunday 02/11/08 - Euchla - Streaky Bay
Left Euchla about 8, and hit the road running along the great Aussie bite. Many spectacular view points with the road running in most places within a k from the cliff edge. Stopped at the Nullabor roadhouse, and soon after the scenery changed to massive, featureless open plain, a bit like Cammoweal on the QLD/NT border, after a while, 100 kms or so, changed to lovely open woodland and then as we got to Nundaroo, into rural farm land. As we filled up there had a chat to some people who'd followed us along the way, tipped us off to see the Eyre peninsular on our way across South Australia, plan changed and off we went, still had a while to go to get there and passed through Ceduna, before heading right down the Eyre. Streaky Bay was about 100kms on and is a lovely little fishing town, reknown in Sydney restaurants for their Scallops, typically none were available there ! Found a great little camp spot down on the bay, and watched the Sunset and Pelicans. More chatting and advice from fellow campers set us up for the next day, but unfortunately made us late for the pub, where we eventually arrived to late for food.
Our idea off time has flown out the window, never actually driven/ridden through so many timezones before and we'd given up changing the time on our phones. The only thing we wanted to know was, what time do the roos come out around here ?

Nullabor dreaming (of a sunny day)

Saturday 1/11/08 Belladonia Roadhouse to Euchla
Left Belladonia hoping for a moderately nice day...something a little overcast perhaps...Weather had other plans, and shortly we were riding through heavy showers. Even so, Nullabor was beautiful, got more beautiful in the shower breaks..., mixture of nothing...very low scrub, medium scrub, and red dirt. Rode steady, stopping every 200kms. Just above Madura was a stunning view as the road dropped down to the lower plain, almost endless view and then the cloud closed over it...Stopped at Madura to eat and hope that the weather would change, so I could take so photos of the pass, but yep, didn't get those shots....
In one of the rain breaks, came across a massive Wedge Tail atop a dead Kangaroo in the middle of the road, he would have stood a metre high, and refused to move as I approached, slowed right down, and just as I got to him, slowly lifted off..
About 40kms West of Euchla, we sighted a strange phenomenon before us....Blue sky and then heat...beautiful....Went down to the old telegraph station behind the beach dunes, almost enveloped in sand...Leo had requested a photo, as had been through in '74, I thought he said with the bikes in front of it...Geoff tried....

Friday, October 31, 2008

Wet, Wet, wetter

Wednesday 29/10/08 Hamelin Bay to Walpole.
After riding for about 6 weeks with only 2 hours of rain, it looks like we're about to cash in some credits.
Gloomy morning, just get the tents packed up dry before the drizzle starts.
Beautiful, if wet ride to Pemberton, awesome tall tree forests (easy 40 metres). Spirits were lifted passing a couple of soaking girls on push bikes, with cable ties on their helmets to keep the maggies from dive bombing !
Lunch in Pemberton, met up with cyclists and then off towards Albany, but 50k from Walpole delayed by major bus crash, atleast 50 people in rolled bus,with 1dead. Everyone on the scene already. Ambos, flying doctors,police, the works, nothing to it, but wait...in the rain,chatting to a kiwi couple, who didn't seem to mind getting out of their nice warm car for a chat to 2 hairy bikers, surprise..turned out to be bike nuts themselves. Finally got to Walpole about 4 and decided enough was enough. Checked into a Pub, dry bed and somewhere to dry the clothes...a result
Thursday 30/10/08 Walpole to Esperance
Left about 7.30, lovely piece of road to Denmark,with more of the giant tree forests, Onto Albany where the rain really started to chuck it down. Really now starting to dream of Turkey Creek, 42c and any sign of water evaporated in 30 secs flat, rode on to Jerramunup, then lunch at Ravensthorpe, before flying down to Esperance. Gloves had become so cold and wet, I ended up buying some hot pick washing up gloves to wear under them...very cool innovation...and chic....I can see a market for Harley riders.
Ended up at the Pier hotel in Esperance,more beer, more food, more fun...and a warm dry bed.
Friday 31/10/08 Esperance to Belladonia Roadhouse.
Journey east has started in earnest !
Another overcast morning, though fairly high cloud.
Rode through Malee Country upto Norseman. Stopped at Salmon gums for a cup of tea, parked the girls under a sign saying "Harley parking only, Jap bikes will be crushed." Changed my tea order to Saki :-}
Raining consistently now and as nice as the country was, it was starting to get to us.
Arrived at Norseman, had some lunch, chatted to a few locals and checked out the view of the Gold mine from the look out. Awesome 360 degree views. Massive lake and river system , with the beauty broken by the huge tailing piles left by the mine.
The Nullarbor beckoned, and who were we to turn her down.
Rain started again..brilliant! 1st 200 kms not what I was expecting..fairly high scrub and fairly lush from the recent rain. Visibility was poor and the cloud low. About half way, stopped at an old sheep station for a cuppa and to get out of the rain, can't believe how cold it is, 17C, I was expecting this bit to be dry and hot !
Reached Belladonia about 2.30pm, gave up the opportunity for another 200 kms in the rain,and decided to stop to see what tomorrow brings,unfortunately seem to be keeping pace with a cold front crossing the country !

Perth and the South west

Sunday 26/10/08 Cervantes to Perth
Cruisy morning, breakfast at a cafe on the beach, before setting off to the Pinnacles NP..
Great little NP, rode around taking pictures, would be great in the evening light !
Stayed about an hour and then headed off to Perth.
Arrived at Danny's place about 3, a beautiful 5 acre property about 40 kms from town in Mundaring.
Chilled out with a few beers before going out to dinner at a lovely old local pub, then back for a spa.
Very cruisy day.
Monday 27/10/08 -Danny's place
Planned to have a day working on the bikes, andDanny tookthe day off to help, brilliant.
Changed chain and sprockets, and Danny found an issue with the carbies,which we disassembled and fixed.
Never spent so much timeon the bike !
Ended up with a late afternoon ride to the weir and a couple of beeers at the weir pub.
Life is beautiful.
Tuesday 28/10/08 - Perth - Hamelin bay
Left Danny's at about 9 and took the inland road to Bunbury. Country was very lush and the cows fat.
We understood why shortly as the rain started to come down.
Cleared up by the time we reached Busselton, then on to Dunsborough and the beautiful Caves road running down the Margaret River coast.
Camped at Hamelin Bay, a beautiful NP 16kms short of Augusta,set up, made a massive fire and then the drizzle started. Met a couple of German travellers,who kindly cooked us dinner, a welcome break from our camping standard- 2 minute noodles ! Good night playing some german game

South...getting colder

Exmouth -Overlander Roadhouse Friday 24/10/08
Left Exmouth early and rode steady down to Carnarvon. Stopped for a coffee and realised in the space of 200kmswe had left the hardcore outback and now were back in civilisation, drinking water from the tap, capuccino, normal prices, mobile phone reception. Not an altogether welcome change.
Last ride from Wooramel to Overlander was gorgeous, through the late afternoon light, wildflowers a plenty,open country, fastride. 540 kms today
Saturday 25/10/08 Overlander to Cervantes
Decided last night not to go to Monkey Mia, number of people travelling through had told us it had become very commercial and orderly .80 people waiting on the beach for the dolphins to come in, parralels were being drawn with seaworld.
Beautiful ride south,masses of wild flowers and plenty of emus on the road to Northampton, but it's also turned cold - 20 c, I'm missing the heat of the Kimberley,where was drinking 2 litres every 100kms.
Stopped in Northampton for a coffee,nice town very rural.50 kmson and we get to Geralton, great lunch at Bella Vista cafe.
Another 200kms to Cervantes, nice fast ride down quiet coastal roads, with views across the ocean. Set up and went out for a few beers and fishand chips, a lovely day.

Journey South.............

dhouse, with the ocassional Road train lighting up the night.
Wednesday 22/10/08 Naruntara to Exmouth - Hot
Up early, lovely ride to Exmouth turnoff then a very dry hot ride out to Exmouth. Stopped at the Lighthouse campsite, set up, and then chilled out at the beach,noticed turtle tracks up the beach.
Went up the lighthouse to watch the sunset, and met some other travellers staying at the same place. Ended up playing cards into the night and checking up on the turtles but no joy.
Thursday23/10/08 Exmouth (Ningaloo)
Woke up early and Geoff and I jumped a lift out to Ningaloo in a camper van with one of the travellers we met thee previous night.
Ningaloo was amazing 50 -60 kms of beautiful white beaches facing on to the reef, went out to Yardie creek gorge and then on to Turquoise bay.
Turquoise bay was beautiful, white coral sand, aqua blue, crystal clear water with the reef 15metres of the beach. Alsoa slow current running right to left along the beach, so just jumped in with the snorkel gear and float 200 metres over the reef to the sand bar. Great fish, allthe usual suspects plus reef sharks.
Cruised back to the campsite via a couple of other beaches and saw turtles and Dolphins.
Awesome day topped of with another lighthouse sunset , with a couple of humpback whales frolicking off the coast.

Tuesday, October 28, 2008

The Journey South ...

Monday - 20/10/08 Broome to De Grey's river (before Port Headland)
Big Riding day, up early and off to Roebuck roadhouse for Brekky..Finally heading South, We've passed half way !
Road is fairly dull with medium high scrub obscuring much of the view, stopped at Sandfire Roadhouse for lunch and then Pardoo for a break before chancing on a great free camping site down on the De Grey's river.
Met a coupe there from Townsville, travelling with their kids for a year, home schooling them.
It's great to meet so many different people living their life so differently to the city norms.

The journey west stalls....Roadhouse Blues....

Monday 13/10/08 - Day 1 Turkey Creek (41C)
We were given a spot of grass out near the road, a small tranquil triangle, frequented by travellers by day and cattle by night !
Spent our first day assessing the damage and seeing what we needed to get going again. Then started ringing around our friends in Sydney Leo and Marty, and Brett in Cairns, prognosis looked a bit grim.
Spent the rest of the day reading (Thks Kees), hadn't touched a book upto this point, and watching the Turkey Creek day unfold.
Tuesday 14/10/08 - Day 2 Turkey Creek (41C)
Lots of time again spent on the phone, with finally the ever resourceful Marty, coming up with the goods....the goods unfortunately were in Sydney. Horror stories about the length of time it would take to get here.
read heaps, swam, watched the world, trying to be as philosophical about the situation as I could.
Met up with some travellers in the evening and played Cards.
One, a French girl was hitching, mainly from Roadhouses, travelling around with no tent, basically sleeping where she could, she was about mid twenties...what guts...amazing what people we've met and how they lived.
Wednesday 15/10/08 - Day 3 Turkey Creek (40C)
Did I mention this place is hot, so hot that a fully wet towel drys in about 5 minutes, a ratchet left out in the sun for 5 minutes will give you 3rd degree burns when you pick it up !
Normal Turkey day...smoking, reading, swimming (Thank God there's a pool here ).
Walked upto the "World Reknowned" Art Gallery in the Aboriginal Community with Geoff and Liz. Walked up part of ridge line behind the Roadhouse and watched the late afternoon colours, gorgeous scenery from high up, with the rocks really lighting up in the afternoon light.
Thursday 16/10/08 - Day 4 Turkey Creek (41C)
"Well I woke up in mornin' and got myself a"...cup of Tea, I don't think I mentioned that because of the Aboriginal community, Turkey Creek is a dry community. When Jimbo wrote Roadhouse Blues, I think he had it summed up pretty well, " The futures uncertain, the end is always near, let it roll baby roll....
Am starting to wonder if this place has become the Road trip, and what it's purpose is...
This evening was visited by about 8 Aboroiginal girls ranging from about 8 - 16, someones car had broken down and they were left to watch it and wait for the adults to return...they never did, about 12.30 Police and Child protection finally came and took them back to the community.
They were pretty hyped to start with and very inquisitive, they thought they recognised Geoff from TV, so told them, he was the original Jackass, and had been trying stunts a couple of days before with Cows and Motor bikes.
We finally went off to bed, about 10.30pm....that's wild for camp sites..normally by 8, there is a deathly hush...anyway kids decided to entertain themselves with the Car, which was about 20 metres from us. Next couple of hours were filled with slamming and smashing car noises...and heaps of laughter, finally just a smy patience was wearing thin, cops turned up.
Friday 17/10/08 - Day 5 - Turkey Creek (41c)
Woke up expectantly waiting for the mail (it's delivered twice a day by Greyhound, (The bus variety unfortunately) but nothing doing. Finished Kee's book and moved on to Geoff's, which was an old favourate and really apt, "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle maintenance", I hadn't read it for over 10 years and it was great to reread and recognise some of the thoughts and ideas.
Went for a walk up the range behind the Roadhouse, late in the afternoon and got to the top around sunset. a stunning view of the whole valley, Kimberleys to one side, McDonnell ranges to the other. Took lots of photos and signed the plaque up there.
Spent the evening playing cards and listening to music (Mobile phones are great gadgets, even without phone reception).
Even with the disappointment of the non mail this morning, we were both feeling fairly upbeat and mellow.
Saturday 18/10/08 - Turkey Creek to Fitzroy Crossing - Deliverance
Waited to see the mail arrive and still no joy....Liz grabbed a lift to Hall's Creek and we both sat down to our breakfast resigned to having to stay the weekend.
Feeling a little low, and slightly less philosophical when the Roadhouse Manager turns up "is This for one of you guys ?" he says holding an Australian Air Express parcel, apparently came in a day or two ago and was assumed to be for one of the road crews who had returned it that day !
Was not sure whether to kiss him or smack him in the head.....luckily decided on neither....
Geoff set off to introduce to his bike, and whammo works first time !
Leave about 11 and head to Hall's Creek, get there and decide to press on, longest leg of the journey without fuel stops, 290 km to Fitzroy Crossing. We take it easy, Road great, scenery ever changing. About 100km before FC decide to take a break and some photos then go to take off and battery almost flat.....ahhhhh! Ride the next 100kms, wondering if I'll make it, great scenery though, a little reminscent of Monument Valley, Utah.
arrive safe and sound, find someone with a battery charger and then head off to the pub for Barra and Chips and beer....you little beauty !
speak to Leo....prognosis again not good...electrics are the weak link on the old GSX1100s
Sunday - 19/10/08 Fitzroy Crossing to Broome
Up early to try and fault diagnose with Geoff, charging system seems to be working fine now...bizarre, but I'm happy. Do the 217 kms to Willare Roadhouse and stop half way there to find charging system again not working ! At Willare, go through the fault finding and it appears to be pointing to bad connections, go through them all and hit them with some WD40, find some that are over heating and refix....beautiful charging again !
Finally arrive in Broome about 40 minutes before dusk and set up up just back from the beach, meet Soren, a Harley riding, Danish guy doing the same trip solo and in only 3 weeks ! Crazy !
Decide to go out and drink beer and watch the highly unusaual Crab racing






Monday, October 27, 2008

The Journey West continues...

Friday 10/10/08 - Darwin to Edith Falls .
After a great couple of days in Darwin, it was good to hit the road again.
Headed out to Lichfield NP, and stopped at Florence Falls for a swim, beautiful twin falls with a great swimming hole, had thought that we might camp in Lichfield, but it was really hot and still, so decided to move on towards Katherine.
Stopped short of Katherine by about 40 Kms at Edith Falls, it was going on dusk when we arrived there and the jumpers were definitely out.
Saturday 11/10/08 - Edith falls to Timber Creek
Started off early and headed into Katherine for brekky, then off down to the Gorge, where we hired a couple of canoes for a few hours and canoed up the gorges. We were told that there were no Salties around, but it didn't inspire that much confidence, given the number of traps they had around for them !
around lunchtime, we left and headed west to Timber Creek. It was avery hot ride, but the scenery was great, with large red rock escarpments near Victoria river, stopped heaps of times for photos.
arrived at Timber Creek as dusk was falling, not to much of a place, and had a fairly quiet night.
Sunday 12/10/08 - Timber Creek to Warmun (Turkey Creek)
What a day ! Started off early again, what is it about camping and heat ! 200 kms to Kununurra, where I had anticipated spending a couple of days doing trips / flights out over the Kimberleys
Being Sunday in a country town, everything was closed, and after talking through with Geoff, decided to let the flying go and leave it for another type of trip.
Got a great tip from the lady at the backpackers about a restaurant on the edge of town in an old pumphouse. Place was great, run by a French motorcyclist/chef, had Eggs Benedict looking over Lake Kununurra....uummm Yum..after Roadhouse burgers and bacon and egg rolls, not to mention 2 minute noodles, it was really welcome.
Headed off about 12 for the 377kms to Halls Creek. Scenery after we passed the Wyndham turn off was stunning, riding through valleys with rugged red ranges on either side, beautiful colours, reds of the dirt, greens and greys of the bush and grasses, reds of the ranges, set off against this massive blue sky. Took lots of photos before continuing on to Doon Doon Roadhouse. Found out there was no fuel in turkey Creek, so filled right up and put an extra 5 litres on the bike, just in case...Arrived at Turkey Creek about 3.30pm and stopped for a quick break and started to become concerned about the wildlife on the road, there was cattle everywhere.
Headed off to Halls and kept speed down around 100 km/h and kept a look out for any strays.
About 50km out of Turkey Creek, did the 2 minute mirror check, and no Geoff, waited for a further minute before turning back. A couple of k back found Geoff, bike upright on it's stand and Geoff pacing around. "What happened" I said, "I hit a cow" says he, I then turned around to check his bike again, headlight, instrument panel, front mud guard, right handside cover panel, either smashed or badly dented.
Oh no ! all the thoughts of what could go wrong were lashing themselves together and hurrying to the front of my head. Checked Geoff out, he'd wacked both knees hard and one was pretty swollen, tear around his left wrist, but apart from that and obviously highly agitated he seemed fine. We waved a car away as we assessed what was possible and shortly afterwards a 4 wheel drive ute approached heading towards Turkey Creek.Left the bike, as it wouldn't start and packed Geoff and his gear into it for the trip back.
back at the Roadhouse, Geoff spoke to one of the guys working there, Dale, (another motorcyclist) He summed it up pretty quickly and organiesd a trailer and 4 wd in about 10 minutes, basically we were told the bike wouldn't be there in the morning, if we left it that night.
Got back out to the bike on dark and loaded it up and hauled back to the roadhouse.
Chilled out til late, trying to unscramble our heads. Dale was an interesting bloke, a thousand stories, enough to make 10 movies from. Rode around a Australia on a trail bike with his brother when 16, beaten up by police, kidnapped a veitnam vet, crashed the bike into a cow, (empathy with Geoff), rode the rest of the way with one handle bar ! Also later on became a Chaplain in a Kalgoorlie prison !
Last thing Geoff says to me..."it's my 49th Birthday today"

Friday, October 10, 2008

A message for Brian the Wolf

Thinking back to that coffee in Bezzini's before you left, wondering what the country is like around the Queensland / NT border. Well I can tell you mate....nothing....I looked....but nothing there.... horizon to horizon, dirt and I think may be one struggling shrub in the 360 degree view. 
Oh and I put down a claim for the Wolverhampton Wanders supporters club, a couple of million hectares... thought it would be good place for you guys... :-)

The Journey West -Cairns to Darwin

Wednesday 1/10
Left the familles in Cairns and headed down to Gordonsvale and upto Lake Barrine for lunch.
Great riding in both the morning and afternoon, morning tight twisty up the range and afternoon fast sweeping roads. Passed a crazy cyclist loaded up about 40 kms from Undarra. Arrived at Undarra NP about 1630, a fairly easy day with not too many Kms
Thursday  2/10
Early start for our Lava Tubes tour. Fascinating two hours, walking through a couple of tubes, there are apparently tubes out there of 160 kms long ! Went to pack up and what do you know the Cyclist turns up and she's an American Chick from East Coast. Stood back in Admiration. She was planning on riding to Karumba, about a 1000 Kms from Cairns through very harsh country, by herself, sleeping by the side of the road most nights....Gutsy !
We then headed off into a completely desolate scenery, spectacular views from the top of ranges and then down into seemingly endless plains...The kms are starting to get big!
Arrived at Croydon about 1600 and decided to stop. Nice little Camp, but damn hot.
Friday 3/10
Croydon to Karumba
Fairly short day today, up to Normanston and then onto Karumba
Arrived Karumba about midday, lovely place, very laid back feel and the capital of Barramundi fishing in Australia. We were going to go fishing and then lost interest as the mercury rised and the beers and swimming pool beckoned.
Watch the sunset and had a feed at the pub on the point. Loving it. Best steak in ages
Saturday 4/10
Karumba to Mt Isa
after a short day yesterday, we thought we try and catch up a little and get as far as Mt Isa tonight. Had brekky in Normanton, headed off to Cloncurry via the Burke and Wills roadhouse for lunch and the meeting of the obligatory Irish backpacker. scenery changed dramatically after cloncurry from open plains to Red Rock ranges, almost like a moon scape.
Mt Isa was really hot, checked into a hotel for some airconditioning.
Sunday 5/10
Mt Isa to Barklay Homestead.
Road the 189 Kms to Camboweal just short of the Territory border through the same red rock scenery of the day before. After Camboweal the scenery change to nothing almost....Red dirt, golden brown grass occasionally, little ribbon of bitumen stretching through it, fluffy white clouds and massive, massive sky...awesome landscape.
Arrived at Barklay homestead about 1630, in time to see the Grand Final, and then set up camp have a few beers and submerge in the pool...luckily flys can't swim under water.
Monday 6/10
Barklay Homestead to Mataranka 600+ kms
Hit rain early into the ride this morning, stopped at 3 Ways to turn onto the Stuart Hwy and met Dimitri, at the Roadhouse, crazy Russian guy with a 750 Honda Africa (Paris Dakar kinda bike) with Moscow number plates. Funny..when ever you think you're doing something big...someone comes and blows you out of the Water :-), Interesting guy, photographer for National Geographic....got me thinking...
Met some other bikers doing 1000+ kms a day, our 300 kms mindset a day, is changing out here, and I think it has to for us to catch up ! 
So rode the 300 kms to Mataranka taking us over 600 for the day.
Great Campsite near Hot natural springs a couple of kms down to the road, which was weirdly part of a swamp, but amazingly water was crystal clear, even though the edge was rotting vegetation !
Dimitri turned up later at the campsite, so spent the evening eating drinking and finding out more of his trip.
Tuesday 7/10
Mataranka - Darwin
Left early with the light, this camping is crazy ! to be met by our first road kill just out of town a whole family of 5 wild pigs....Road train goes on. 
About 50kms down the road, came across an older German bloke about 70, who had had a blow out in one of his rear tyres of his camper. Stopped and helped as he was getting pretty flustered. spent about an hour crawling around in the dirt, mainly Geoff, before heading off again.
Onto Katherine, Adelaide River and finally Darwina bout 3pm.
Went out for a beautiful Thai meal in town and slept in a bed ! 
Wednesday / Thursday 7/8 of the 10th
Spent Wednesday morning checking  the bikes, ordering new chains and sprockets to be used some time down the track, before heading down to Pete and Cas's beach place down at Dundee.
Beautiful and remote, about 120kms from Darwin. 50 metres from the aqua blue Timor sea.
Back on Thursday about 12, picked up bike parts and did some needed maintenance, Oil change,  and hoping my bike appreciates and responds accordingly :-)
Went out to Mindal beach markets in the evening to wander and grab dinner. Great place, amazing food smells wafting in the air, grazing on satays, music, didg and drums, and fire stick performers. Great atmosphere. 

Last Coupla days....Tuesday 30/09

Went out to the reef on Ocean Spirit, a beautiful large Catamaran.
Great day of Snorkling, eating, drinking, going out on the glass bottom boat and generally watching the ocean life go by. Saw heaps of different reef fish, dolphins, turtles and clams. It was all good.
Back in Cairns, went to recover Hanako (The Bike) and true to expectation, Brett had her purring again. 

Tuesday, September 30, 2008

Last Coupla days...All sorts of stuff

Monday....Beautiful Morning...sunny..all the usual stuff :-)
Decide to take the road up to Kuranda, across to Atherton and down via Gordonsvale back to Cairns...It was mentioned in the Motor Cycle Atlas and highly recommended. I've gotta say that some of the roads we've ridden have just been beautiful, this 180 k loop was all that and more.
10k of 40k bends climbing up the escarpment to Kuranda, stopped at a lookout 3/4 of the way up and noticed that Hanako was sounding like a tractor, thought it may be the muffler and filed it somewhere at the back. Then went on to Kuranda, lovely little hippy town with markets and heaps of interesting people. Wander around for a bit and stopped for a coffee. Then off to Barron Falls, lovely waterfall and walk through the roof of the rainforest. Then headed off to find some lunch, stopped in Atherton to pick up petrol and some muffler tape and then rode about 20k to Lake Barrine, which had been recommended to us by the coffee shop in Kuranda.
It was gorgeous a volcanic crater filled with water with a little tea house on one side. It was lovely and cool and great food.
Wandered out of their after a while, Susie looked at the bike and said, "is this meant to be like this ?" The suspension adjustment was hanging off the bike having shed 2 bolts somewhere. Anyway it all looked kinda ok and I strapped it up with a couple of occys before setting of to Gordonsvale...This was one of the highlights 16k of 40 - 50 k corners heading down the escarpment, absolutely wicked road, which had recently been resurfaced and was in pristine condition. I think I mentioned to Geoff last week that the Minister for Transport in QLD must be a bike rider, because every time we come to a good section, surface is generally excellent.
Got back to Cairns just before 5 and ducked into the Suzuki dealership, they were fairly unimpressed with a bike over 5 years old, but gave me the bad news that it sounded more like the Timing chain than the muffler, and sent me to Cattana motorcycles.
This piece of information was GOLD, rang Brett up from there (now 5.15pm) and asked if I could come over right away, (him) yeah, I'm not rushing anywhere".
Brett reminded me alot of Geoff, one of those people who is calm, laconic and you know now you're out of trouble. Started the bike, looked at me and laughed " Now I know there's a God" he Says, The timing control is 3 threads from flying out and that would have stopped the bike dead"
Needless to say I felt an overwhelming sense of relief, knowing that he was one of those people who for work it isn't just a job, you could just tell he was going to give Hanako the care.
Went home that night relieved.

Special Thanks to Leo


Special Thanks goes out to our "support team" currently in a holding patern somewhere over Bilgola. Thanks Leo, I won't have made it this far without you. Tyres and all the stuff we did before hand have paid dividends. We've been kinda blessed that when something does happen, so far it's always happened when someone can help us out.

Monday, September 29, 2008

Where were we... 4th part in the trilogy..upto Sunday 29/09

Friday 26/09....Woke up early...6ish...This damn camping...waking up up at dawn...it was beautiful..mist on the river as the sun came up. Spent a while wandering around with the camera taking pics. Lee checked her Yabbie pots about soon after to find a whole bonanza, about 50 !
You could live and camp for free year around here, mind you, you'd get sick of Yabbies !
Moved off about 10ish for the shortish 200 ks trip to Townsville. Road, was a road train route and there was masses of road kill, almost seemed like a roo every 100 metres or so.
Came down over the ranges, but bypassed Townsville and stopped for Lunch in the strangely named Rollingstone. Found a great little cafe, right down on the ocean with a crocodile infested creek running past. Aptly had some fish and chips and a couple of beers, it was stinking hot, but great. Asked one of the locals about the crocs and he was typically droll, 'yeah there's 3 residents, couple of females and a 4 mtr resident male, freaked a couple of people out the other night on the boat ramp' (just below where we sat)
Decided to head about 40 kms North up into the hills and hopefully somewhere cooler - Juinana Falls. Beautiful campsite, very quiet, with a couple of ks walk to the Falls and masses of swimming holes. Waterfall was spectacular falling off the escarpment in a series of zig zag falls down into the gorge. Spent a little while rock hopping and swimming and then back to the camp for a delicious dinner of Muesli....!
Saturday...Beautiful morning again...what is it with this QLD place...?
Rode through Ingham and then up and over a headland to a spectacular look out over the Hinchinbrook channel and across to the Island. This really is a stunning country, I know it's big, but the variety and quality of the places and scenery is amazing. Cruisy ride down to Cardwell where we had the morning special Coffee and Profiteroles (Almost matched Sonia's...I said almost...alright). We're both feeling very chilled and hung out there for a while, just taking in the scenery.
Headed up from their to Innisfail, through classic QLD coastal country of dramatic rainforest ranges sloping down to Cane fields and then the ocean.
Stopped at the Innisfail RSL for lunch, but at just 2 the kitchen had closed, so we had a beer instead...
Rain clouds had been chasing us all day... and so donned the wet weather gear for the first time ! and set off in Misty rain up to Cairns. Only 60 odd kms to Cairns and arrived there with a great sense of Relief...bikes, everything, a part from a couple of minor hiccups had gone well...3500 kms and counting.
Arrived at the Bohemia resort and settled down at the pool with a couple of beers and waited for Leslie, Fiona and Susie to arrive...they turned up, mand we decided to stay in and have the resort bbq....yummmm..meat !
Sunday... Fairly relaxing morning, not having to get up and pack all are stuff for a change... slept in a bed too. Decide to head up with Susie to Mossman Gorge and Cape Tribulation.
Took the Captain Cook Hwy up the coast, about 20k out of Cairns turned into bikers paradise, every headland had 4-5 40-50 k bends all in sequence, spectacular scenery as ranges coming right down to the beach. About 40k out of Cairns stopped at Rex's lookout, a great view down the coast.
Headed off from there upto Mossman gorge and being QLD school holidays and a good road to the gorge...there were heaps of people, however after wandering 100 metres through the bush, had our very own isolated spot of river.
Beautiful place, lovely river. Crystal clear and warm, with masses of boulders, brought back those dreamy childhood memories of family holidays in Dartmoor and Scotland...a river of dreams !
Spent a while rock hopping, swimming and taking photos.
Time was running out a little but still we decided to head north to Cape Tribulation, got the ferry over and up and over the windy single track road through the Daintree, but to be honest in the time we had, it was just a sniff...waiting for another trip.
Fanged it back to Cairns down the gorgeous road again and arrived just as I needed to to remove my sunnies.
Went into town with Susie for a Greek feed, which was excellent...another memorable day.

Sunday, September 28, 2008

Where were we ...are yes Tuesday 23/09

Tuesday...Got up early, and got to the gorge entrance about 8ish, set off with as bag of nuts and some water for what looked like a hard day's walking (25kms), the first 5 kms were great, and after 5 most of the attractions started, the Moss Garden, followed by the Amphitheatre, Ward's Canyon and the Art Gallery. Check the photos at http://www.flickr.com/photos/bilgolaj/
All were great, and the walking was fairly easy and flat down the floor of the gorge. Scenery was very similar to the Blue Mountains, though more tropical and warmer. decided to go the extra 10 kms to see the Cathedral Cave, Big bend and Bowinia canyon, and even though they were good, by the time we got back to the start we were both knackered. Had a beer at the resort, before heading back to Taranaki camp.
Couldn't face 2 minute noodles again, so coerced Geoff into us buying a steak each, which we cooked up at the camp kitchen. Met up with a French girl (Audrey), a German girl (Sonia), and a French guy (Valu), who we played cards with most of the night until Sonia got out her fire stick and gave aq performance.. She was good.. also was moonlighting at a circus in NSW. It was a great night.
Wednesday...Not feeling quite so bright....headed north again. revisited the Cafe in Rolleston who were now on day 3, however, still didn't quite have the act together, as both of us endured a cup of cold tea...interesting.
Spoke to a road train driver who knew Dave's friends the Hugh's in Clermont, but that's unfortunately as close to them as I got.
Rode fast through some beautiful country upto Clermont with views out to the Mountains near Mackay, back roads have been so good, very little traffic and great views.
Ended up in Clermont, didn't seem to have much life, so ended up getting a motel and chilling out with a few beers and some movies.
Thursday.. Started off about 9ish for what looked like a long day (approx 400kms)
Roads were great though and averaged approx 130k. Lots of Road trains and sense of "this is Australia.." really starting to filter through...spaces were vast...skys huge..
Almost hit a wedge tail eagle doing about 120ks freaked me out a little, which was then followed about an hour later by a family of about 5 Emus.
Stopped at Belyando Crossing, half way to Charters Towers and 200k from anywhere, to be served by an Irish Girl from Donegal.
Stopped again in Charters Towers for the best coffee in many a day. Beautiful old Gold rush town, great old architecture. Then set off 40kms north to Fletcher's park, for our first night of free camping.
Campsite was beautiful, right on the edge of creek, and had a number of Grey Nomads, again very welcoming, after overcoming the initial "oh Bikeys syndrome." Geoff laid on the charm and before long Lee from across the road gave us a plate full of yabbies on ritz crackers fresh from the stream, which was washed down with a couple of VB, can't say fairer than that !
Met a couple of old boys from across the river who'd been there or there abouts all thier life, mustering cattle, one of them, little guy, about 65 fit as fiddle and stringy as wire, lived under a tarp just downstream...makes you think ...
A great day.. good people people and a great ride.
More tomorrow....

Saturday, September 27, 2008

Day - not sure - but we're in Cairns


Welll it's been almost a week, since we've been close to anything that vaguely resembles the internet.
Saturday
We left Mullum last Saturday morning and heade upto Imbil, inland from Noosa.
Great ride through the Glass house mountains - Maleny and Kenilworth and to Imbil for our first nights camping. Poured with rain first night - Woke up next morning to find that Geoff's tent had leaked and he'd spent half of the night with the bottom part of his sleeping bag in a garbage bag to further waterproof his tent.
Sunday we headed north to Cania Gorge near Monto. Temperature really starting to warm up nicely. Great ride from outside Gympie to Kenilvan for a surprisingly good cappucino and lunch at Gayndah in a classic old Queensland pub. Great riding afterwards, no traffic, 120 - 130kph average, starting to get afeel for the country now.
Arrived at a lovely campsite in Cania Gorge, brim full of grey nomads.
Monday.....QLD beautiful one day...Awoke to another gorgeous morning, fast ride to Biloela and stopped for what was advertised as hot coffee. Hot was the only thing it was.
Again having taken the back roads hardly any traffic and most of the day was spent riding by ourselves.
Saw a classic caravan slogan on one of the grey nomads..."Adventure before Dementia " ...fair shout I'd say.
Some of the roads reminded me of pictures of Utah with the road stretching off straight out into the horizon. After the first week of great twisty roads, almost forgotten what a corner was !
Geoff has started the macabre sport of photographing the different types of road kill...I think we're currently up to six, with a wild boar being the most prized.
Arrived at Carnarvon gorge about 4 and immediately befriended by some very friendly nomads, firstly offering ice for six pack we'd picked up in Rolleston and then offered an Esky too.
Had our now familiar dinner of 2 minute noodles....

Ahh !! Manuana now...eyes getting tired..more episodes tomorrow

Friday, September 19, 2008

Day 3 - A mix

Started off latish from Emerald Beach and headed upto Grafton onto Casino, Lismore and upto Nimbin. The road from Lismore to Nimbin was classic, twisty road following a beautiful valley upto Nimbin. Strolled around Nimbin for a while and then took off to the Channon. From there we thought we had enough time to go upto Protestors Fall, but misjudged the timing with 15km of dirt each way, by the time we got back to the Channon it was getting dark, and we rode the last 30 odd k to Mullum in the dark, along some roads which would have been beautiful in the light.
Geoff also picked up a rivet in his back tyre and spent the last ?? k riding on a flat, which with the darkness and the road, made for a scary trip to Cliff and Emma's 
It was lovely to get there and great to spend some time with them all, in what is probably my second home in Australia :-)

Day 2

Walcha was freezing last night, so we made an executive decision to head for the coast and warmer weather. It was the right decision, as we had a great day, riding up to Armidale and and then east along the Waterfall way to Dorrigo and Bellingen, and ultimately finished at Pete's place at Emerald Beach. What a lovely place to finish the ride.
Other Highlights of the day, were Baker's Creek falls, Wollomombi falls (Which were both spectacular falls into a massive and wild gorge) and the road from Ebor to Dorrigo and then down the mountain to Bellingen.
Overall a fantastic day of both riding and scenery.

Day 1

Well, we had a couple of false starts, one bike mechanical, one human mechanical, and slipped away unnoticed on Tuesday morning, for the Bike ritual meeting above Galston Gorge.
Headed up the Putty to Singleton, then Buckets way to Gloucester.  Having reached Gloucester later than we anticipated we made the discision to press onto Walcha, ended upbeing 144 kms and after about 50minutes of gorgeous riding in the evening light, it turned black.....and very cold.
Eventually after my bike went on to reserve...freaked me out a little..actually alot.. we finally made to Walcha and the unrelative comfort of an over priced Caravan.
We were gutted when we found out that rooms at the pub were cheaper !

Sunday, September 14, 2008

Night -2, Day -1

Friday Night, after last day of work for 10 weeks !
BBQ around at our place with alot of the usual suspects and some new ones !
Both of us feeling good, but not with same air of excitement that everyone else seems to have about the trip !
Saturday - Beautiful day, must have been close to 30, first day that felt like summer. Spent time with Leo fixing up slight oil leak from sump plug.
Also Geoff's starter motor decides to stop ! It seems to be a preview of possibly things to come, The scenario unfolding. One of us breaks down, call to 24 hr Leo service, Leo somehow finds part in his million motorcycle garage, - Geoff fixes bike - Tour moves on.
It's a great feeling to have so much confidence in your friends !
Saturday night, Predicition for weather on Sunday looks poor, and also to give Geoff time to fix Starter motor, We decide to shift our departure to Monday morning - Also allows me to sit up and watch Arsenal flog Blackburn away 4-0 'til 2AM !

Sunday, August 17, 2008

4 Weeks to go

Well,it's 4 weeks to go now, I checked my tent out today ! It seems waterproof enough.
4 weeks and are we prepared ?
Bike....who knows.. I'm going to have her serviced...couple more sessions with Leo to fix up stuff.
Bought a video camera, have started putting my gear together in the spare room.
Kinda planned the first 8 to 10 days, but online, and we don't have access while we riding .....
I'm starting to feel excited about it, but have no idea if we've done enough...how much is enough.
Did our "remote first aid" last week, and we both passed !

Hanako!


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Friday, May 30, 2008

The gear

Need to decide what to pack...
Once I've made a list Ill stick it here, Then I can update with;
what worked
what didn't
what I had to acquire
what I dumped.