Monday....Beautiful Morning...sunny..all the usual stuff :-)
Decide to take the road up to Kuranda, across to Atherton and down via Gordonsvale back to Cairns...It was mentioned in the Motor Cycle Atlas and highly recommended. I've gotta say that some of the roads we've ridden have just been beautiful, this 180 k loop was all that and more.
10k of 40k bends climbing up the escarpment to Kuranda, stopped at a lookout 3/4 of the way up and noticed that Hanako was sounding like a tractor, thought it may be the muffler and filed it somewhere at the back. Then went on to Kuranda, lovely little hippy town with markets and heaps of interesting people. Wander around for a bit and stopped for a coffee. Then off to Barron Falls, lovely waterfall and walk through the roof of the rainforest. Then headed off to find some lunch, stopped in Atherton to pick up petrol and some muffler tape and then rode about 20k to Lake Barrine, which had been recommended to us by the coffee shop in Kuranda.
It was gorgeous a volcanic crater filled with water with a little tea house on one side. It was lovely and cool and great food.
Wandered out of their after a while, Susie looked at the bike and said, "is this meant to be like this ?" The suspension adjustment was hanging off the bike having shed 2 bolts somewhere. Anyway it all looked kinda ok and I strapped it up with a couple of occys before setting of to Gordonsvale...This was one of the highlights 16k of 40 - 50 k corners heading down the escarpment, absolutely wicked road, which had recently been resurfaced and was in pristine condition. I think I mentioned to Geoff last week that the Minister for Transport in QLD must be a bike rider, because every time we come to a good section, surface is generally excellent.
Got back to Cairns just before 5 and ducked into the Suzuki dealership, they were fairly unimpressed with a bike over 5 years old, but gave me the bad news that it sounded more like the Timing chain than the muffler, and sent me to Cattana motorcycles.
This piece of information was GOLD, rang Brett up from there (now 5.15pm) and asked if I could come over right away, (him) yeah, I'm not rushing anywhere".
Brett reminded me alot of Geoff, one of those people who is calm, laconic and you know now you're out of trouble. Started the bike, looked at me and laughed " Now I know there's a God" he Says, The timing control is 3 threads from flying out and that would have stopped the bike dead"
Needless to say I felt an overwhelming sense of relief, knowing that he was one of those people who for work it isn't just a job, you could just tell he was going to give Hanako the care.
Went home that night relieved.
Tuesday, September 30, 2008
Special Thanks to Leo
Special Thanks goes out to our "support team" currently in a holding patern somewhere over Bilgola. Thanks Leo, I won't have made it this far without you. Tyres and all the stuff we did before hand have paid dividends. We've been kinda blessed that when something does happen, so far it's always happened when someone can help us out.
Monday, September 29, 2008
Where were we... 4th part in the trilogy..upto Sunday 29/09
Friday 26/09....Woke up early...6ish...This damn camping...waking up up at dawn...it was beautiful..mist on the river as the sun came up. Spent a while wandering around with the camera taking pics. Lee checked her Yabbie pots about soon after to find a whole bonanza, about 50 !
You could live and camp for free year around here, mind you, you'd get sick of Yabbies !
Moved off about 10ish for the shortish 200 ks trip to Townsville. Road, was a road train route and there was masses of road kill, almost seemed like a roo every 100 metres or so.
Came down over the ranges, but bypassed Townsville and stopped for Lunch in the strangely named Rollingstone. Found a great little cafe, right down on the ocean with a crocodile infested creek running past. Aptly had some fish and chips and a couple of beers, it was stinking hot, but great. Asked one of the locals about the crocs and he was typically droll, 'yeah there's 3 residents, couple of females and a 4 mtr resident male, freaked a couple of people out the other night on the boat ramp' (just below where we sat)
Decided to head about 40 kms North up into the hills and hopefully somewhere cooler - Juinana Falls. Beautiful campsite, very quiet, with a couple of ks walk to the Falls and masses of swimming holes. Waterfall was spectacular falling off the escarpment in a series of zig zag falls down into the gorge. Spent a little while rock hopping and swimming and then back to the camp for a delicious dinner of Muesli....!
Saturday...Beautiful morning again...what is it with this QLD place...?
Rode through Ingham and then up and over a headland to a spectacular look out over the Hinchinbrook channel and across to the Island. This really is a stunning country, I know it's big, but the variety and quality of the places and scenery is amazing. Cruisy ride down to Cardwell where we had the morning special Coffee and Profiteroles (Almost matched Sonia's...I said almost...alright). We're both feeling very chilled and hung out there for a while, just taking in the scenery.
Headed up from their to Innisfail, through classic QLD coastal country of dramatic rainforest ranges sloping down to Cane fields and then the ocean.
Stopped at the Innisfail RSL for lunch, but at just 2 the kitchen had closed, so we had a beer instead...
Rain clouds had been chasing us all day... and so donned the wet weather gear for the first time ! and set off in Misty rain up to Cairns. Only 60 odd kms to Cairns and arrived there with a great sense of Relief...bikes, everything, a part from a couple of minor hiccups had gone well...3500 kms and counting.
Arrived at the Bohemia resort and settled down at the pool with a couple of beers and waited for Leslie, Fiona and Susie to arrive...they turned up, mand we decided to stay in and have the resort bbq....yummmm..meat !
Sunday... Fairly relaxing morning, not having to get up and pack all are stuff for a change... slept in a bed too. Decide to head up with Susie to Mossman Gorge and Cape Tribulation.
Took the Captain Cook Hwy up the coast, about 20k out of Cairns turned into bikers paradise, every headland had 4-5 40-50 k bends all in sequence, spectacular scenery as ranges coming right down to the beach. About 40k out of Cairns stopped at Rex's lookout, a great view down the coast.
Headed off from there upto Mossman gorge and being QLD school holidays and a good road to the gorge...there were heaps of people, however after wandering 100 metres through the bush, had our very own isolated spot of river.
Beautiful place, lovely river. Crystal clear and warm, with masses of boulders, brought back those dreamy childhood memories of family holidays in Dartmoor and Scotland...a river of dreams !
Spent a while rock hopping, swimming and taking photos.
Time was running out a little but still we decided to head north to Cape Tribulation, got the ferry over and up and over the windy single track road through the Daintree, but to be honest in the time we had, it was just a sniff...waiting for another trip.
Fanged it back to Cairns down the gorgeous road again and arrived just as I needed to to remove my sunnies.
Went into town with Susie for a Greek feed, which was excellent...another memorable day.
You could live and camp for free year around here, mind you, you'd get sick of Yabbies !
Moved off about 10ish for the shortish 200 ks trip to Townsville. Road, was a road train route and there was masses of road kill, almost seemed like a roo every 100 metres or so.
Came down over the ranges, but bypassed Townsville and stopped for Lunch in the strangely named Rollingstone. Found a great little cafe, right down on the ocean with a crocodile infested creek running past. Aptly had some fish and chips and a couple of beers, it was stinking hot, but great. Asked one of the locals about the crocs and he was typically droll, 'yeah there's 3 residents, couple of females and a 4 mtr resident male, freaked a couple of people out the other night on the boat ramp' (just below where we sat)
Decided to head about 40 kms North up into the hills and hopefully somewhere cooler - Juinana Falls. Beautiful campsite, very quiet, with a couple of ks walk to the Falls and masses of swimming holes. Waterfall was spectacular falling off the escarpment in a series of zig zag falls down into the gorge. Spent a little while rock hopping and swimming and then back to the camp for a delicious dinner of Muesli....!
Saturday...Beautiful morning again...what is it with this QLD place...?
Rode through Ingham and then up and over a headland to a spectacular look out over the Hinchinbrook channel and across to the Island. This really is a stunning country, I know it's big, but the variety and quality of the places and scenery is amazing. Cruisy ride down to Cardwell where we had the morning special Coffee and Profiteroles (Almost matched Sonia's...I said almost...alright). We're both feeling very chilled and hung out there for a while, just taking in the scenery.
Headed up from their to Innisfail, through classic QLD coastal country of dramatic rainforest ranges sloping down to Cane fields and then the ocean.
Stopped at the Innisfail RSL for lunch, but at just 2 the kitchen had closed, so we had a beer instead...
Rain clouds had been chasing us all day... and so donned the wet weather gear for the first time ! and set off in Misty rain up to Cairns. Only 60 odd kms to Cairns and arrived there with a great sense of Relief...bikes, everything, a part from a couple of minor hiccups had gone well...3500 kms and counting.
Arrived at the Bohemia resort and settled down at the pool with a couple of beers and waited for Leslie, Fiona and Susie to arrive...they turned up, mand we decided to stay in and have the resort bbq....yummmm..meat !
Sunday... Fairly relaxing morning, not having to get up and pack all are stuff for a change... slept in a bed too. Decide to head up with Susie to Mossman Gorge and Cape Tribulation.
Took the Captain Cook Hwy up the coast, about 20k out of Cairns turned into bikers paradise, every headland had 4-5 40-50 k bends all in sequence, spectacular scenery as ranges coming right down to the beach. About 40k out of Cairns stopped at Rex's lookout, a great view down the coast.
Headed off from there upto Mossman gorge and being QLD school holidays and a good road to the gorge...there were heaps of people, however after wandering 100 metres through the bush, had our very own isolated spot of river.
Beautiful place, lovely river. Crystal clear and warm, with masses of boulders, brought back those dreamy childhood memories of family holidays in Dartmoor and Scotland...a river of dreams !
Spent a while rock hopping, swimming and taking photos.
Time was running out a little but still we decided to head north to Cape Tribulation, got the ferry over and up and over the windy single track road through the Daintree, but to be honest in the time we had, it was just a sniff...waiting for another trip.
Fanged it back to Cairns down the gorgeous road again and arrived just as I needed to to remove my sunnies.
Went into town with Susie for a Greek feed, which was excellent...another memorable day.
Sunday, September 28, 2008
Where were we ...are yes Tuesday 23/09
Tuesday...Got up early, and got to the gorge entrance about 8ish, set off with as bag of nuts and some water for what looked like a hard day's walking (25kms), the first 5 kms were great, and after 5 most of the attractions started, the Moss Garden, followed by the Amphitheatre, Ward's Canyon and the Art Gallery. Check the photos at http://www.flickr.com/photos/bilgolaj/
All were great, and the walking was fairly easy and flat down the floor of the gorge. Scenery was very similar to the Blue Mountains, though more tropical and warmer. decided to go the extra 10 kms to see the Cathedral Cave, Big bend and Bowinia canyon, and even though they were good, by the time we got back to the start we were both knackered. Had a beer at the resort, before heading back to Taranaki camp.
Couldn't face 2 minute noodles again, so coerced Geoff into us buying a steak each, which we cooked up at the camp kitchen. Met up with a French girl (Audrey), a German girl (Sonia), and a French guy (Valu), who we played cards with most of the night until Sonia got out her fire stick and gave aq performance.. She was good.. also was moonlighting at a circus in NSW. It was a great night.
Wednesday...Not feeling quite so bright....headed north again. revisited the Cafe in Rolleston who were now on day 3, however, still didn't quite have the act together, as both of us endured a cup of cold tea...interesting.
Spoke to a road train driver who knew Dave's friends the Hugh's in Clermont, but that's unfortunately as close to them as I got.
Rode fast through some beautiful country upto Clermont with views out to the Mountains near Mackay, back roads have been so good, very little traffic and great views.
Ended up in Clermont, didn't seem to have much life, so ended up getting a motel and chilling out with a few beers and some movies.
Thursday.. Started off about 9ish for what looked like a long day (approx 400kms)
Roads were great though and averaged approx 130k. Lots of Road trains and sense of "this is Australia.." really starting to filter through...spaces were vast...skys huge..
Almost hit a wedge tail eagle doing about 120ks freaked me out a little, which was then followed about an hour later by a family of about 5 Emus.
Stopped at Belyando Crossing, half way to Charters Towers and 200k from anywhere, to be served by an Irish Girl from Donegal.
Stopped again in Charters Towers for the best coffee in many a day. Beautiful old Gold rush town, great old architecture. Then set off 40kms north to Fletcher's park, for our first night of free camping.
Campsite was beautiful, right on the edge of creek, and had a number of Grey Nomads, again very welcoming, after overcoming the initial "oh Bikeys syndrome." Geoff laid on the charm and before long Lee from across the road gave us a plate full of yabbies on ritz crackers fresh from the stream, which was washed down with a couple of VB, can't say fairer than that !
Met a couple of old boys from across the river who'd been there or there abouts all thier life, mustering cattle, one of them, little guy, about 65 fit as fiddle and stringy as wire, lived under a tarp just downstream...makes you think ...
A great day.. good people people and a great ride.
More tomorrow....
All were great, and the walking was fairly easy and flat down the floor of the gorge. Scenery was very similar to the Blue Mountains, though more tropical and warmer. decided to go the extra 10 kms to see the Cathedral Cave, Big bend and Bowinia canyon, and even though they were good, by the time we got back to the start we were both knackered. Had a beer at the resort, before heading back to Taranaki camp.
Couldn't face 2 minute noodles again, so coerced Geoff into us buying a steak each, which we cooked up at the camp kitchen. Met up with a French girl (Audrey), a German girl (Sonia), and a French guy (Valu), who we played cards with most of the night until Sonia got out her fire stick and gave aq performance.. She was good.. also was moonlighting at a circus in NSW. It was a great night.
Wednesday...Not feeling quite so bright....headed north again. revisited the Cafe in Rolleston who were now on day 3, however, still didn't quite have the act together, as both of us endured a cup of cold tea...interesting.
Spoke to a road train driver who knew Dave's friends the Hugh's in Clermont, but that's unfortunately as close to them as I got.
Rode fast through some beautiful country upto Clermont with views out to the Mountains near Mackay, back roads have been so good, very little traffic and great views.
Ended up in Clermont, didn't seem to have much life, so ended up getting a motel and chilling out with a few beers and some movies.
Thursday.. Started off about 9ish for what looked like a long day (approx 400kms)
Roads were great though and averaged approx 130k. Lots of Road trains and sense of "this is Australia.." really starting to filter through...spaces were vast...skys huge..
Almost hit a wedge tail eagle doing about 120ks freaked me out a little, which was then followed about an hour later by a family of about 5 Emus.
Stopped at Belyando Crossing, half way to Charters Towers and 200k from anywhere, to be served by an Irish Girl from Donegal.
Stopped again in Charters Towers for the best coffee in many a day. Beautiful old Gold rush town, great old architecture. Then set off 40kms north to Fletcher's park, for our first night of free camping.
Campsite was beautiful, right on the edge of creek, and had a number of Grey Nomads, again very welcoming, after overcoming the initial "oh Bikeys syndrome." Geoff laid on the charm and before long Lee from across the road gave us a plate full of yabbies on ritz crackers fresh from the stream, which was washed down with a couple of VB, can't say fairer than that !
Met a couple of old boys from across the river who'd been there or there abouts all thier life, mustering cattle, one of them, little guy, about 65 fit as fiddle and stringy as wire, lived under a tarp just downstream...makes you think ...
A great day.. good people people and a great ride.
More tomorrow....
Saturday, September 27, 2008
Day - not sure - but we're in Cairns
Welll it's been almost a week, since we've been close to anything that vaguely resembles the internet.
Saturday
We left Mullum last Saturday morning and heade upto Imbil, inland from Noosa.
Great ride through the Glass house mountains - Maleny and Kenilworth and to Imbil for our first nights camping. Poured with rain first night - Woke up next morning to find that Geoff's tent had leaked and he'd spent half of the night with the bottom part of his sleeping bag in a garbage bag to further waterproof his tent.
Sunday we headed north to Cania Gorge near Monto. Temperature really starting to warm up nicely. Great ride from outside Gympie to Kenilvan for a surprisingly good cappucino and lunch at Gayndah in a classic old Queensland pub. Great riding afterwards, no traffic, 120 - 130kph average, starting to get afeel for the country now.
Arrived at a lovely campsite in Cania Gorge, brim full of grey nomads.
Monday.....QLD beautiful one day...Awoke to another gorgeous morning, fast ride to Biloela and stopped for what was advertised as hot coffee. Hot was the only thing it was.
Again having taken the back roads hardly any traffic and most of the day was spent riding by ourselves.
Saw a classic caravan slogan on one of the grey nomads..."Adventure before Dementia " ...fair shout I'd say.
Some of the roads reminded me of pictures of Utah with the road stretching off straight out into the horizon. After the first week of great twisty roads, almost forgotten what a corner was !
Geoff has started the macabre sport of photographing the different types of road kill...I think we're currently up to six, with a wild boar being the most prized.
Arrived at Carnarvon gorge about 4 and immediately befriended by some very friendly nomads, firstly offering ice for six pack we'd picked up in Rolleston and then offered an Esky too.
Had our now familiar dinner of 2 minute noodles....
Ahh !! Manuana now...eyes getting tired..more episodes tomorrow
Friday, September 19, 2008
Day 3 - A mix
Started off latish from Emerald Beach and headed upto Grafton onto Casino, Lismore and upto Nimbin. The road from Lismore to Nimbin was classic, twisty road following a beautiful valley upto Nimbin. Strolled around Nimbin for a while and then took off to the Channon. From there we thought we had enough time to go upto Protestors Fall, but misjudged the timing with 15km of dirt each way, by the time we got back to the Channon it was getting dark, and we rode the last 30 odd k to Mullum in the dark, along some roads which would have been beautiful in the light.
Geoff also picked up a rivet in his back tyre and spent the last ?? k riding on a flat, which with the darkness and the road, made for a scary trip to Cliff and Emma's
It was lovely to get there and great to spend some time with them all, in what is probably my second home in Australia :-)
Day 2
Walcha was freezing last night, so we made an executive decision to head for the coast and warmer weather. It was the right decision, as we had a great day, riding up to Armidale and and then east along the Waterfall way to Dorrigo and Bellingen, and ultimately finished at Pete's place at Emerald Beach. What a lovely place to finish the ride.
Other Highlights of the day, were Baker's Creek falls, Wollomombi falls (Which were both spectacular falls into a massive and wild gorge) and the road from Ebor to Dorrigo and then down the mountain to Bellingen.
Overall a fantastic day of both riding and scenery.
Day 1
Well, we had a couple of false starts, one bike mechanical, one human mechanical, and slipped away unnoticed on Tuesday morning, for the Bike ritual meeting above Galston Gorge.
Headed up the Putty to Singleton, then Buckets way to Gloucester. Having reached Gloucester later than we anticipated we made the discision to press onto Walcha, ended upbeing 144 kms and after about 50minutes of gorgeous riding in the evening light, it turned black.....and very cold.
Eventually after my bike went on to reserve...freaked me out a little..actually alot.. we finally made to Walcha and the unrelative comfort of an over priced Caravan.
We were gutted when we found out that rooms at the pub were cheaper !
Sunday, September 14, 2008
Night -2, Day -1
Friday Night, after last day of work for 10 weeks !
BBQ around at our place with alot of the usual suspects and some new ones !
Both of us feeling good, but not with same air of excitement that everyone else seems to have about the trip !
Saturday - Beautiful day, must have been close to 30, first day that felt like summer. Spent time with Leo fixing up slight oil leak from sump plug.
Also Geoff's starter motor decides to stop ! It seems to be a preview of possibly things to come, The scenario unfolding. One of us breaks down, call to 24 hr Leo service, Leo somehow finds part in his million motorcycle garage, - Geoff fixes bike - Tour moves on.
It's a great feeling to have so much confidence in your friends !
Saturday night, Predicition for weather on Sunday looks poor, and also to give Geoff time to fix Starter motor, We decide to shift our departure to Monday morning - Also allows me to sit up and watch Arsenal flog Blackburn away 4-0 'til 2AM !
BBQ around at our place with alot of the usual suspects and some new ones !
Both of us feeling good, but not with same air of excitement that everyone else seems to have about the trip !
Saturday - Beautiful day, must have been close to 30, first day that felt like summer. Spent time with Leo fixing up slight oil leak from sump plug.
Also Geoff's starter motor decides to stop ! It seems to be a preview of possibly things to come, The scenario unfolding. One of us breaks down, call to 24 hr Leo service, Leo somehow finds part in his million motorcycle garage, - Geoff fixes bike - Tour moves on.
It's a great feeling to have so much confidence in your friends !
Saturday night, Predicition for weather on Sunday looks poor, and also to give Geoff time to fix Starter motor, We decide to shift our departure to Monday morning - Also allows me to sit up and watch Arsenal flog Blackburn away 4-0 'til 2AM !
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