Wednesday 29/10/08 Hamelin Bay to Walpole.
After riding for about 6 weeks with only 2 hours of rain, it looks like we're about to cash in some credits.
Gloomy morning, just get the tents packed up dry before the drizzle starts.
Beautiful, if wet ride to Pemberton, awesome tall tree forests (easy 40 metres). Spirits were lifted passing a couple of soaking girls on push bikes, with cable ties on their helmets to keep the maggies from dive bombing !
Lunch in Pemberton, met up with cyclists and then off towards Albany, but 50k from Walpole delayed by major bus crash, atleast 50 people in rolled bus,with 1dead. Everyone on the scene already. Ambos, flying doctors,police, the works, nothing to it, but wait...in the rain,chatting to a kiwi couple, who didn't seem to mind getting out of their nice warm car for a chat to 2 hairy bikers, surprise..turned out to be bike nuts themselves. Finally got to Walpole about 4 and decided enough was enough. Checked into a Pub, dry bed and somewhere to dry the clothes...a result
Thursday 30/10/08 Walpole to Esperance
Left about 7.30, lovely piece of road to Denmark,with more of the giant tree forests, Onto Albany where the rain really started to chuck it down. Really now starting to dream of Turkey Creek, 42c and any sign of water evaporated in 30 secs flat, rode on to Jerramunup, then lunch at Ravensthorpe, before flying down to Esperance. Gloves had become so cold and wet, I ended up buying some hot pick washing up gloves to wear under them...very cool innovation...and chic....I can see a market for Harley riders.
Ended up at the Pier hotel in Esperance,more beer, more food, more fun...and a warm dry bed.
Friday 31/10/08 Esperance to Belladonia Roadhouse.
Journey east has started in earnest !
Another overcast morning, though fairly high cloud.
Rode through Malee Country upto Norseman. Stopped at Salmon gums for a cup of tea, parked the girls under a sign saying "Harley parking only, Jap bikes will be crushed." Changed my tea order to Saki :-}
Raining consistently now and as nice as the country was, it was starting to get to us.
Arrived at Norseman, had some lunch, chatted to a few locals and checked out the view of the Gold mine from the look out. Awesome 360 degree views. Massive lake and river system , with the beauty broken by the huge tailing piles left by the mine.
The Nullarbor beckoned, and who were we to turn her down.
Rain started again..brilliant! 1st 200 kms not what I was expecting..fairly high scrub and fairly lush from the recent rain. Visibility was poor and the cloud low. About half way, stopped at an old sheep station for a cuppa and to get out of the rain, can't believe how cold it is, 17C, I was expecting this bit to be dry and hot !
Reached Belladonia about 2.30pm, gave up the opportunity for another 200 kms in the rain,and decided to stop to see what tomorrow brings,unfortunately seem to be keeping pace with a cold front crossing the country !
Friday, October 31, 2008
Perth and the South west
Sunday 26/10/08 Cervantes to Perth
Cruisy morning, breakfast at a cafe on the beach, before setting off to the Pinnacles NP..
Great little NP, rode around taking pictures, would be great in the evening light !
Stayed about an hour and then headed off to Perth.
Arrived at Danny's place about 3, a beautiful 5 acre property about 40 kms from town in Mundaring.
Chilled out with a few beers before going out to dinner at a lovely old local pub, then back for a spa.
Very cruisy day.
Monday 27/10/08 -Danny's place
Planned to have a day working on the bikes, andDanny tookthe day off to help, brilliant.
Changed chain and sprockets, and Danny found an issue with the carbies,which we disassembled and fixed.
Never spent so much timeon the bike !
Ended up with a late afternoon ride to the weir and a couple of beeers at the weir pub.
Life is beautiful.
Tuesday 28/10/08 - Perth - Hamelin bay
Left Danny's at about 9 and took the inland road to Bunbury. Country was very lush and the cows fat.
We understood why shortly as the rain started to come down.
Cleared up by the time we reached Busselton, then on to Dunsborough and the beautiful Caves road running down the Margaret River coast.
Camped at Hamelin Bay, a beautiful NP 16kms short of Augusta,set up, made a massive fire and then the drizzle started. Met a couple of German travellers,who kindly cooked us dinner, a welcome break from our camping standard- 2 minute noodles ! Good night playing some german game
Cruisy morning, breakfast at a cafe on the beach, before setting off to the Pinnacles NP..
Great little NP, rode around taking pictures, would be great in the evening light !
Stayed about an hour and then headed off to Perth.
Arrived at Danny's place about 3, a beautiful 5 acre property about 40 kms from town in Mundaring.
Chilled out with a few beers before going out to dinner at a lovely old local pub, then back for a spa.
Very cruisy day.
Monday 27/10/08 -Danny's place
Planned to have a day working on the bikes, andDanny tookthe day off to help, brilliant.
Changed chain and sprockets, and Danny found an issue with the carbies,which we disassembled and fixed.
Never spent so much timeon the bike !
Ended up with a late afternoon ride to the weir and a couple of beeers at the weir pub.
Life is beautiful.
Tuesday 28/10/08 - Perth - Hamelin bay
Left Danny's at about 9 and took the inland road to Bunbury. Country was very lush and the cows fat.
We understood why shortly as the rain started to come down.
Cleared up by the time we reached Busselton, then on to Dunsborough and the beautiful Caves road running down the Margaret River coast.
Camped at Hamelin Bay, a beautiful NP 16kms short of Augusta,set up, made a massive fire and then the drizzle started. Met a couple of German travellers,who kindly cooked us dinner, a welcome break from our camping standard- 2 minute noodles ! Good night playing some german game
South...getting colder
Exmouth -Overlander Roadhouse Friday 24/10/08
Left Exmouth early and rode steady down to Carnarvon. Stopped for a coffee and realised in the space of 200kmswe had left the hardcore outback and now were back in civilisation, drinking water from the tap, capuccino, normal prices, mobile phone reception. Not an altogether welcome change.
Last ride from Wooramel to Overlander was gorgeous, through the late afternoon light, wildflowers a plenty,open country, fastride. 540 kms today
Saturday 25/10/08 Overlander to Cervantes
Decided last night not to go to Monkey Mia, number of people travelling through had told us it had become very commercial and orderly .80 people waiting on the beach for the dolphins to come in, parralels were being drawn with seaworld.
Beautiful ride south,masses of wild flowers and plenty of emus on the road to Northampton, but it's also turned cold - 20 c, I'm missing the heat of the Kimberley,where was drinking 2 litres every 100kms.
Stopped in Northampton for a coffee,nice town very rural.50 kmson and we get to Geralton, great lunch at Bella Vista cafe.
Another 200kms to Cervantes, nice fast ride down quiet coastal roads, with views across the ocean. Set up and went out for a few beers and fishand chips, a lovely day.
Left Exmouth early and rode steady down to Carnarvon. Stopped for a coffee and realised in the space of 200kmswe had left the hardcore outback and now were back in civilisation, drinking water from the tap, capuccino, normal prices, mobile phone reception. Not an altogether welcome change.
Last ride from Wooramel to Overlander was gorgeous, through the late afternoon light, wildflowers a plenty,open country, fastride. 540 kms today
Saturday 25/10/08 Overlander to Cervantes
Decided last night not to go to Monkey Mia, number of people travelling through had told us it had become very commercial and orderly .80 people waiting on the beach for the dolphins to come in, parralels were being drawn with seaworld.
Beautiful ride south,masses of wild flowers and plenty of emus on the road to Northampton, but it's also turned cold - 20 c, I'm missing the heat of the Kimberley,where was drinking 2 litres every 100kms.
Stopped in Northampton for a coffee,nice town very rural.50 kmson and we get to Geralton, great lunch at Bella Vista cafe.
Another 200kms to Cervantes, nice fast ride down quiet coastal roads, with views across the ocean. Set up and went out for a few beers and fishand chips, a lovely day.
Journey South.............
dhouse, with the ocassional Road train lighting up the night.
Wednesday 22/10/08 Naruntara to Exmouth - Hot
Up early, lovely ride to Exmouth turnoff then a very dry hot ride out to Exmouth. Stopped at the Lighthouse campsite, set up, and then chilled out at the beach,noticed turtle tracks up the beach.
Went up the lighthouse to watch the sunset, and met some other travellers staying at the same place. Ended up playing cards into the night and checking up on the turtles but no joy.
Thursday23/10/08 Exmouth (Ningaloo)
Woke up early and Geoff and I jumped a lift out to Ningaloo in a camper van with one of the travellers we met thee previous night.
Ningaloo was amazing 50 -60 kms of beautiful white beaches facing on to the reef, went out to Yardie creek gorge and then on to Turquoise bay.
Turquoise bay was beautiful, white coral sand, aqua blue, crystal clear water with the reef 15metres of the beach. Alsoa slow current running right to left along the beach, so just jumped in with the snorkel gear and float 200 metres over the reef to the sand bar. Great fish, allthe usual suspects plus reef sharks.
Cruised back to the campsite via a couple of other beaches and saw turtles and Dolphins.
Awesome day topped of with another lighthouse sunset , with a couple of humpback whales frolicking off the coast.
Wednesday 22/10/08 Naruntara to Exmouth - Hot
Up early, lovely ride to Exmouth turnoff then a very dry hot ride out to Exmouth. Stopped at the Lighthouse campsite, set up, and then chilled out at the beach,noticed turtle tracks up the beach.
Went up the lighthouse to watch the sunset, and met some other travellers staying at the same place. Ended up playing cards into the night and checking up on the turtles but no joy.
Thursday23/10/08 Exmouth (Ningaloo)
Woke up early and Geoff and I jumped a lift out to Ningaloo in a camper van with one of the travellers we met thee previous night.
Ningaloo was amazing 50 -60 kms of beautiful white beaches facing on to the reef, went out to Yardie creek gorge and then on to Turquoise bay.
Turquoise bay was beautiful, white coral sand, aqua blue, crystal clear water with the reef 15metres of the beach. Alsoa slow current running right to left along the beach, so just jumped in with the snorkel gear and float 200 metres over the reef to the sand bar. Great fish, allthe usual suspects plus reef sharks.
Cruised back to the campsite via a couple of other beaches and saw turtles and Dolphins.
Awesome day topped of with another lighthouse sunset , with a couple of humpback whales frolicking off the coast.
Tuesday, October 28, 2008
The Journey South ...
Monday - 20/10/08 Broome to De Grey's river (before Port Headland)
Big Riding day, up early and off to Roebuck roadhouse for Brekky..Finally heading South, We've passed half way !
Road is fairly dull with medium high scrub obscuring much of the view, stopped at Sandfire Roadhouse for lunch and then Pardoo for a break before chancing on a great free camping site down on the De Grey's river.
Met a coupe there from Townsville, travelling with their kids for a year, home schooling them.
It's great to meet so many different people living their life so differently to the city norms.
Big Riding day, up early and off to Roebuck roadhouse for Brekky..Finally heading South, We've passed half way !
Road is fairly dull with medium high scrub obscuring much of the view, stopped at Sandfire Roadhouse for lunch and then Pardoo for a break before chancing on a great free camping site down on the De Grey's river.
Met a coupe there from Townsville, travelling with their kids for a year, home schooling them.
It's great to meet so many different people living their life so differently to the city norms.
The journey west stalls....Roadhouse Blues....
Monday 13/10/08 - Day 1 Turkey Creek (41C)
We were given a spot of grass out near the road, a small tranquil triangle, frequented by travellers by day and cattle by night !
Spent our first day assessing the damage and seeing what we needed to get going again. Then started ringing around our friends in Sydney Leo and Marty, and Brett in Cairns, prognosis looked a bit grim.
Spent the rest of the day reading (Thks Kees), hadn't touched a book upto this point, and watching the Turkey Creek day unfold.
Tuesday 14/10/08 - Day 2 Turkey Creek (41C)
Lots of time again spent on the phone, with finally the ever resourceful Marty, coming up with the goods....the goods unfortunately were in Sydney. Horror stories about the length of time it would take to get here.
read heaps, swam, watched the world, trying to be as philosophical about the situation as I could.
Met up with some travellers in the evening and played Cards.
One, a French girl was hitching, mainly from Roadhouses, travelling around with no tent, basically sleeping where she could, she was about mid twenties...what guts...amazing what people we've met and how they lived.
Wednesday 15/10/08 - Day 3 Turkey Creek (40C)
Did I mention this place is hot, so hot that a fully wet towel drys in about 5 minutes, a ratchet left out in the sun for 5 minutes will give you 3rd degree burns when you pick it up !
Normal Turkey day...smoking, reading, swimming (Thank God there's a pool here ).
Walked upto the "World Reknowned" Art Gallery in the Aboriginal Community with Geoff and Liz. Walked up part of ridge line behind the Roadhouse and watched the late afternoon colours, gorgeous scenery from high up, with the rocks really lighting up in the afternoon light.
Thursday 16/10/08 - Day 4 Turkey Creek (41C)
"Well I woke up in mornin' and got myself a"...cup of Tea, I don't think I mentioned that because of the Aboriginal community, Turkey Creek is a dry community. When Jimbo wrote Roadhouse Blues, I think he had it summed up pretty well, " The futures uncertain, the end is always near, let it roll baby roll....
Am starting to wonder if this place has become the Road trip, and what it's purpose is...
This evening was visited by about 8 Aboroiginal girls ranging from about 8 - 16, someones car had broken down and they were left to watch it and wait for the adults to return...they never did, about 12.30 Police and Child protection finally came and took them back to the community.
They were pretty hyped to start with and very inquisitive, they thought they recognised Geoff from TV, so told them, he was the original Jackass, and had been trying stunts a couple of days before with Cows and Motor bikes.
We finally went off to bed, about 10.30pm....that's wild for camp sites..normally by 8, there is a deathly hush...anyway kids decided to entertain themselves with the Car, which was about 20 metres from us. Next couple of hours were filled with slamming and smashing car noises...and heaps of laughter, finally just a smy patience was wearing thin, cops turned up.
Friday 17/10/08 - Day 5 - Turkey Creek (41c)
Woke up expectantly waiting for the mail (it's delivered twice a day by Greyhound, (The bus variety unfortunately) but nothing doing. Finished Kee's book and moved on to Geoff's, which was an old favourate and really apt, "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle maintenance", I hadn't read it for over 10 years and it was great to reread and recognise some of the thoughts and ideas.
Went for a walk up the range behind the Roadhouse, late in the afternoon and got to the top around sunset. a stunning view of the whole valley, Kimberleys to one side, McDonnell ranges to the other. Took lots of photos and signed the plaque up there.
Spent the evening playing cards and listening to music (Mobile phones are great gadgets, even without phone reception).
Even with the disappointment of the non mail this morning, we were both feeling fairly upbeat and mellow.
Saturday 18/10/08 - Turkey Creek to Fitzroy Crossing - Deliverance
Waited to see the mail arrive and still no joy....Liz grabbed a lift to Hall's Creek and we both sat down to our breakfast resigned to having to stay the weekend.
Feeling a little low, and slightly less philosophical when the Roadhouse Manager turns up "is This for one of you guys ?" he says holding an Australian Air Express parcel, apparently came in a day or two ago and was assumed to be for one of the road crews who had returned it that day !
Was not sure whether to kiss him or smack him in the head.....luckily decided on neither....
Geoff set off to introduce to his bike, and whammo works first time !
Leave about 11 and head to Hall's Creek, get there and decide to press on, longest leg of the journey without fuel stops, 290 km to Fitzroy Crossing. We take it easy, Road great, scenery ever changing. About 100km before FC decide to take a break and some photos then go to take off and battery almost flat.....ahhhhh! Ride the next 100kms, wondering if I'll make it, great scenery though, a little reminscent of Monument Valley, Utah.
arrive safe and sound, find someone with a battery charger and then head off to the pub for Barra and Chips and beer....you little beauty !
speak to Leo....prognosis again not good...electrics are the weak link on the old GSX1100s
Sunday - 19/10/08 Fitzroy Crossing to Broome
Up early to try and fault diagnose with Geoff, charging system seems to be working fine now...bizarre, but I'm happy. Do the 217 kms to Willare Roadhouse and stop half way there to find charging system again not working ! At Willare, go through the fault finding and it appears to be pointing to bad connections, go through them all and hit them with some WD40, find some that are over heating and refix....beautiful charging again !
Finally arrive in Broome about 40 minutes before dusk and set up up just back from the beach, meet Soren, a Harley riding, Danish guy doing the same trip solo and in only 3 weeks ! Crazy !
Decide to go out and drink beer and watch the highly unusaual Crab racing
We were given a spot of grass out near the road, a small tranquil triangle, frequented by travellers by day and cattle by night !
Spent our first day assessing the damage and seeing what we needed to get going again. Then started ringing around our friends in Sydney Leo and Marty, and Brett in Cairns, prognosis looked a bit grim.
Spent the rest of the day reading (Thks Kees), hadn't touched a book upto this point, and watching the Turkey Creek day unfold.
Tuesday 14/10/08 - Day 2 Turkey Creek (41C)
Lots of time again spent on the phone, with finally the ever resourceful Marty, coming up with the goods....the goods unfortunately were in Sydney. Horror stories about the length of time it would take to get here.
read heaps, swam, watched the world, trying to be as philosophical about the situation as I could.
Met up with some travellers in the evening and played Cards.
One, a French girl was hitching, mainly from Roadhouses, travelling around with no tent, basically sleeping where she could, she was about mid twenties...what guts...amazing what people we've met and how they lived.
Wednesday 15/10/08 - Day 3 Turkey Creek (40C)
Did I mention this place is hot, so hot that a fully wet towel drys in about 5 minutes, a ratchet left out in the sun for 5 minutes will give you 3rd degree burns when you pick it up !
Normal Turkey day...smoking, reading, swimming (Thank God there's a pool here ).
Walked upto the "World Reknowned" Art Gallery in the Aboriginal Community with Geoff and Liz. Walked up part of ridge line behind the Roadhouse and watched the late afternoon colours, gorgeous scenery from high up, with the rocks really lighting up in the afternoon light.
Thursday 16/10/08 - Day 4 Turkey Creek (41C)
"Well I woke up in mornin' and got myself a"...cup of Tea, I don't think I mentioned that because of the Aboriginal community, Turkey Creek is a dry community. When Jimbo wrote Roadhouse Blues, I think he had it summed up pretty well, " The futures uncertain, the end is always near, let it roll baby roll....
Am starting to wonder if this place has become the Road trip, and what it's purpose is...
This evening was visited by about 8 Aboroiginal girls ranging from about 8 - 16, someones car had broken down and they were left to watch it and wait for the adults to return...they never did, about 12.30 Police and Child protection finally came and took them back to the community.
They were pretty hyped to start with and very inquisitive, they thought they recognised Geoff from TV, so told them, he was the original Jackass, and had been trying stunts a couple of days before with Cows and Motor bikes.
We finally went off to bed, about 10.30pm....that's wild for camp sites..normally by 8, there is a deathly hush...anyway kids decided to entertain themselves with the Car, which was about 20 metres from us. Next couple of hours were filled with slamming and smashing car noises...and heaps of laughter, finally just a smy patience was wearing thin, cops turned up.
Friday 17/10/08 - Day 5 - Turkey Creek (41c)
Woke up expectantly waiting for the mail (it's delivered twice a day by Greyhound, (The bus variety unfortunately) but nothing doing. Finished Kee's book and moved on to Geoff's, which was an old favourate and really apt, "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle maintenance", I hadn't read it for over 10 years and it was great to reread and recognise some of the thoughts and ideas.
Went for a walk up the range behind the Roadhouse, late in the afternoon and got to the top around sunset. a stunning view of the whole valley, Kimberleys to one side, McDonnell ranges to the other. Took lots of photos and signed the plaque up there.
Spent the evening playing cards and listening to music (Mobile phones are great gadgets, even without phone reception).
Even with the disappointment of the non mail this morning, we were both feeling fairly upbeat and mellow.
Saturday 18/10/08 - Turkey Creek to Fitzroy Crossing - Deliverance
Waited to see the mail arrive and still no joy....Liz grabbed a lift to Hall's Creek and we both sat down to our breakfast resigned to having to stay the weekend.
Feeling a little low, and slightly less philosophical when the Roadhouse Manager turns up "is This for one of you guys ?" he says holding an Australian Air Express parcel, apparently came in a day or two ago and was assumed to be for one of the road crews who had returned it that day !
Was not sure whether to kiss him or smack him in the head.....luckily decided on neither....
Geoff set off to introduce to his bike, and whammo works first time !
Leave about 11 and head to Hall's Creek, get there and decide to press on, longest leg of the journey without fuel stops, 290 km to Fitzroy Crossing. We take it easy, Road great, scenery ever changing. About 100km before FC decide to take a break and some photos then go to take off and battery almost flat.....ahhhhh! Ride the next 100kms, wondering if I'll make it, great scenery though, a little reminscent of Monument Valley, Utah.
arrive safe and sound, find someone with a battery charger and then head off to the pub for Barra and Chips and beer....you little beauty !
speak to Leo....prognosis again not good...electrics are the weak link on the old GSX1100s
Sunday - 19/10/08 Fitzroy Crossing to Broome
Up early to try and fault diagnose with Geoff, charging system seems to be working fine now...bizarre, but I'm happy. Do the 217 kms to Willare Roadhouse and stop half way there to find charging system again not working ! At Willare, go through the fault finding and it appears to be pointing to bad connections, go through them all and hit them with some WD40, find some that are over heating and refix....beautiful charging again !
Finally arrive in Broome about 40 minutes before dusk and set up up just back from the beach, meet Soren, a Harley riding, Danish guy doing the same trip solo and in only 3 weeks ! Crazy !
Decide to go out and drink beer and watch the highly unusaual Crab racing
Monday, October 27, 2008
The Journey West continues...
Friday 10/10/08 - Darwin to Edith Falls .
After a great couple of days in Darwin, it was good to hit the road again.
Headed out to Lichfield NP, and stopped at Florence Falls for a swim, beautiful twin falls with a great swimming hole, had thought that we might camp in Lichfield, but it was really hot and still, so decided to move on towards Katherine.
Stopped short of Katherine by about 40 Kms at Edith Falls, it was going on dusk when we arrived there and the jumpers were definitely out.
Saturday 11/10/08 - Edith falls to Timber Creek
Started off early and headed into Katherine for brekky, then off down to the Gorge, where we hired a couple of canoes for a few hours and canoed up the gorges. We were told that there were no Salties around, but it didn't inspire that much confidence, given the number of traps they had around for them !
around lunchtime, we left and headed west to Timber Creek. It was avery hot ride, but the scenery was great, with large red rock escarpments near Victoria river, stopped heaps of times for photos.
arrived at Timber Creek as dusk was falling, not to much of a place, and had a fairly quiet night.
Sunday 12/10/08 - Timber Creek to Warmun (Turkey Creek)
What a day ! Started off early again, what is it about camping and heat ! 200 kms to Kununurra, where I had anticipated spending a couple of days doing trips / flights out over the Kimberleys
Being Sunday in a country town, everything was closed, and after talking through with Geoff, decided to let the flying go and leave it for another type of trip.
Got a great tip from the lady at the backpackers about a restaurant on the edge of town in an old pumphouse. Place was great, run by a French motorcyclist/chef, had Eggs Benedict looking over Lake Kununurra....uummm Yum..after Roadhouse burgers and bacon and egg rolls, not to mention 2 minute noodles, it was really welcome.
Headed off about 12 for the 377kms to Halls Creek. Scenery after we passed the Wyndham turn off was stunning, riding through valleys with rugged red ranges on either side, beautiful colours, reds of the dirt, greens and greys of the bush and grasses, reds of the ranges, set off against this massive blue sky. Took lots of photos before continuing on to Doon Doon Roadhouse. Found out there was no fuel in turkey Creek, so filled right up and put an extra 5 litres on the bike, just in case...Arrived at Turkey Creek about 3.30pm and stopped for a quick break and started to become concerned about the wildlife on the road, there was cattle everywhere.
Headed off to Halls and kept speed down around 100 km/h and kept a look out for any strays.
About 50km out of Turkey Creek, did the 2 minute mirror check, and no Geoff, waited for a further minute before turning back. A couple of k back found Geoff, bike upright on it's stand and Geoff pacing around. "What happened" I said, "I hit a cow" says he, I then turned around to check his bike again, headlight, instrument panel, front mud guard, right handside cover panel, either smashed or badly dented.
Oh no ! all the thoughts of what could go wrong were lashing themselves together and hurrying to the front of my head. Checked Geoff out, he'd wacked both knees hard and one was pretty swollen, tear around his left wrist, but apart from that and obviously highly agitated he seemed fine. We waved a car away as we assessed what was possible and shortly afterwards a 4 wheel drive ute approached heading towards Turkey Creek.Left the bike, as it wouldn't start and packed Geoff and his gear into it for the trip back.
back at the Roadhouse, Geoff spoke to one of the guys working there, Dale, (another motorcyclist) He summed it up pretty quickly and organiesd a trailer and 4 wd in about 10 minutes, basically we were told the bike wouldn't be there in the morning, if we left it that night.
Got back out to the bike on dark and loaded it up and hauled back to the roadhouse.
Chilled out til late, trying to unscramble our heads. Dale was an interesting bloke, a thousand stories, enough to make 10 movies from. Rode around a Australia on a trail bike with his brother when 16, beaten up by police, kidnapped a veitnam vet, crashed the bike into a cow, (empathy with Geoff), rode the rest of the way with one handle bar ! Also later on became a Chaplain in a Kalgoorlie prison !
Last thing Geoff says to me..."it's my 49th Birthday today"
After a great couple of days in Darwin, it was good to hit the road again.
Headed out to Lichfield NP, and stopped at Florence Falls for a swim, beautiful twin falls with a great swimming hole, had thought that we might camp in Lichfield, but it was really hot and still, so decided to move on towards Katherine.
Stopped short of Katherine by about 40 Kms at Edith Falls, it was going on dusk when we arrived there and the jumpers were definitely out.
Saturday 11/10/08 - Edith falls to Timber Creek
Started off early and headed into Katherine for brekky, then off down to the Gorge, where we hired a couple of canoes for a few hours and canoed up the gorges. We were told that there were no Salties around, but it didn't inspire that much confidence, given the number of traps they had around for them !
around lunchtime, we left and headed west to Timber Creek. It was avery hot ride, but the scenery was great, with large red rock escarpments near Victoria river, stopped heaps of times for photos.
arrived at Timber Creek as dusk was falling, not to much of a place, and had a fairly quiet night.
Sunday 12/10/08 - Timber Creek to Warmun (Turkey Creek)
What a day ! Started off early again, what is it about camping and heat ! 200 kms to Kununurra, where I had anticipated spending a couple of days doing trips / flights out over the Kimberleys
Being Sunday in a country town, everything was closed, and after talking through with Geoff, decided to let the flying go and leave it for another type of trip.
Got a great tip from the lady at the backpackers about a restaurant on the edge of town in an old pumphouse. Place was great, run by a French motorcyclist/chef, had Eggs Benedict looking over Lake Kununurra....uummm Yum..after Roadhouse burgers and bacon and egg rolls, not to mention 2 minute noodles, it was really welcome.
Headed off about 12 for the 377kms to Halls Creek. Scenery after we passed the Wyndham turn off was stunning, riding through valleys with rugged red ranges on either side, beautiful colours, reds of the dirt, greens and greys of the bush and grasses, reds of the ranges, set off against this massive blue sky. Took lots of photos before continuing on to Doon Doon Roadhouse. Found out there was no fuel in turkey Creek, so filled right up and put an extra 5 litres on the bike, just in case...Arrived at Turkey Creek about 3.30pm and stopped for a quick break and started to become concerned about the wildlife on the road, there was cattle everywhere.
Headed off to Halls and kept speed down around 100 km/h and kept a look out for any strays.
About 50km out of Turkey Creek, did the 2 minute mirror check, and no Geoff, waited for a further minute before turning back. A couple of k back found Geoff, bike upright on it's stand and Geoff pacing around. "What happened" I said, "I hit a cow" says he, I then turned around to check his bike again, headlight, instrument panel, front mud guard, right handside cover panel, either smashed or badly dented.
Oh no ! all the thoughts of what could go wrong were lashing themselves together and hurrying to the front of my head. Checked Geoff out, he'd wacked both knees hard and one was pretty swollen, tear around his left wrist, but apart from that and obviously highly agitated he seemed fine. We waved a car away as we assessed what was possible and shortly afterwards a 4 wheel drive ute approached heading towards Turkey Creek.Left the bike, as it wouldn't start and packed Geoff and his gear into it for the trip back.
back at the Roadhouse, Geoff spoke to one of the guys working there, Dale, (another motorcyclist) He summed it up pretty quickly and organiesd a trailer and 4 wd in about 10 minutes, basically we were told the bike wouldn't be there in the morning, if we left it that night.
Got back out to the bike on dark and loaded it up and hauled back to the roadhouse.
Chilled out til late, trying to unscramble our heads. Dale was an interesting bloke, a thousand stories, enough to make 10 movies from. Rode around a Australia on a trail bike with his brother when 16, beaten up by police, kidnapped a veitnam vet, crashed the bike into a cow, (empathy with Geoff), rode the rest of the way with one handle bar ! Also later on became a Chaplain in a Kalgoorlie prison !
Last thing Geoff says to me..."it's my 49th Birthday today"
Friday, October 10, 2008
A message for Brian the Wolf
Thinking back to that coffee in Bezzini's before you left, wondering what the country is like around the Queensland / NT border. Well I can tell you mate....nothing....I looked....but nothing there.... horizon to horizon, dirt and I think may be one struggling shrub in the 360 degree view.
Oh and I put down a claim for the Wolverhampton Wanders supporters club, a couple of million hectares... thought it would be good place for you guys... :-)
The Journey West -Cairns to Darwin
Wednesday 1/10
Left the familles in Cairns and headed down to Gordonsvale and upto Lake Barrine for lunch.
Great riding in both the morning and afternoon, morning tight twisty up the range and afternoon fast sweeping roads. Passed a crazy cyclist loaded up about 40 kms from Undarra. Arrived at Undarra NP about 1630, a fairly easy day with not too many Kms
Thursday 2/10
Early start for our Lava Tubes tour. Fascinating two hours, walking through a couple of tubes, there are apparently tubes out there of 160 kms long ! Went to pack up and what do you know the Cyclist turns up and she's an American Chick from East Coast. Stood back in Admiration. She was planning on riding to Karumba, about a 1000 Kms from Cairns through very harsh country, by herself, sleeping by the side of the road most nights....Gutsy !
We then headed off into a completely desolate scenery, spectacular views from the top of ranges and then down into seemingly endless plains...The kms are starting to get big!
Arrived at Croydon about 1600 and decided to stop. Nice little Camp, but damn hot.
Friday 3/10
Croydon to Karumba
Fairly short day today, up to Normanston and then onto Karumba.
Arrived Karumba about midday, lovely place, very laid back feel and the capital of Barramundi fishing in Australia. We were going to go fishing and then lost interest as the mercury rised and the beers and swimming pool beckoned.
Watch the sunset and had a feed at the pub on the point. Loving it. Best steak in ages
Saturday 4/10
Karumba to Mt Isa
after a short day yesterday, we thought we try and catch up a little and get as far as Mt Isa tonight. Had brekky in Normanton, headed off to Cloncurry via the Burke and Wills roadhouse for lunch and the meeting of the obligatory Irish backpacker. scenery changed dramatically after cloncurry from open plains to Red Rock ranges, almost like a moon scape.
Mt Isa was really hot, checked into a hotel for some airconditioning.
Sunday 5/10
Mt Isa to Barklay Homestead.
Road the 189 Kms to Camboweal just short of the Territory border through the same red rock scenery of the day before. After Camboweal the scenery change to nothing almost....Red dirt, golden brown grass occasionally, little ribbon of bitumen stretching through it, fluffy white clouds and massive, massive sky...awesome landscape.
Arrived at Barklay homestead about 1630, in time to see the Grand Final, and then set up camp have a few beers and submerge in the pool...luckily flys can't swim under water.
Monday 6/10
Barklay Homestead to Mataranka 600+ kms
Hit rain early into the ride this morning, stopped at 3 Ways to turn onto the Stuart Hwy and met Dimitri, at the Roadhouse, crazy Russian guy with a 750 Honda Africa (Paris Dakar kinda bike) with Moscow number plates. Funny..when ever you think you're doing something big...someone comes and blows you out of the Water :-), Interesting guy, photographer for National Geographic....got me thinking...
Met some other bikers doing 1000+ kms a day, our 300 kms mindset a day, is changing out here, and I think it has to for us to catch up !
So rode the 300 kms to Mataranka taking us over 600 for the day.
Great Campsite near Hot natural springs a couple of kms down to the road, which was weirdly part of a swamp, but amazingly water was crystal clear, even though the edge was rotting vegetation !
Dimitri turned up later at the campsite, so spent the evening eating drinking and finding out more of his trip.
Tuesday 7/10
Mataranka - Darwin
Left early with the light, this camping is crazy ! to be met by our first road kill just out of town a whole family of 5 wild pigs....Road train goes on.
About 50kms down the road, came across an older German bloke about 70, who had had a blow out in one of his rear tyres of his camper. Stopped and helped as he was getting pretty flustered. spent about an hour crawling around in the dirt, mainly Geoff, before heading off again.
Onto Katherine, Adelaide River and finally Darwina bout 3pm.
Went out for a beautiful Thai meal in town and slept in a bed !
Wednesday / Thursday 7/8 of the 10th
Spent Wednesday morning checking the bikes, ordering new chains and sprockets to be used some time down the track, before heading down to Pete and Cas's beach place down at Dundee.
Beautiful and remote, about 120kms from Darwin. 50 metres from the aqua blue Timor sea.
Back on Thursday about 12, picked up bike parts and did some needed maintenance, Oil change, and hoping my bike appreciates and responds accordingly :-)
Went out to Mindal beach markets in the evening to wander and grab dinner. Great place, amazing food smells wafting in the air, grazing on satays, music, didg and drums, and fire stick performers. Great atmosphere.
Last Coupla days....Tuesday 30/09
Went out to the reef on Ocean Spirit, a beautiful large Catamaran.
Great day of Snorkling, eating, drinking, going out on the glass bottom boat and generally watching the ocean life go by. Saw heaps of different reef fish, dolphins, turtles and clams. It was all good.
Back in Cairns, went to recover Hanako (The Bike) and true to expectation, Brett had her purring again.
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